Xenia Beach (Ambelakia), Skiathos: The 220m Sandy Cove Where the 1963 Xenia Hotel Was Abandoned, Then Became the Elivi Resort, With Black Swans in the Adjacent Wetland

Greece | Ambelakia | Skiathos, Northern Sporades

The Xenia Hotel on Skiathos was erected in 1963 by architect G. Nicoletopoulos — one of the first hotels built on the island, at the moment when Skiathos was designated a special tourism development zone and its southwest coast began its transformation from the rural area called Maratha into one of the Mediterranean’s most photographed beach destinations. The hotel operated, fell into decline, was abandoned, was photographed extensively by urban explorers, and stood empty for decades above the bay that took its name.

In 2015 the site was sold through HRADF (Greece’s privatisation fund) for €2,628,000 to TENAMAR S.A., which developed it into the Elivi Skiathos luxury resort — a 213-acre complex embracing the Koukounaries bay, the protected black swan wetland, and the Big Banana and Little Banana beaches. The beach below the original hotel site is now partly operated by Elivi and partly public. The contrast between the abandoned hotel era and the current five-star operation is the specific Xenia Beach story.

The black swan wetland adjacent to the beach is the specific wildlife detail. The Strophilia lagoon behind Koukounaries is a Natura 2000 protected biotope. Black swans are present — an unusual visual for an Aegean beach, and a specific feature of this southwestern corner of the island that the wider Koukounaries description tends to understate.

Getting There: Bus Stop 26 Then Steep Path Down, or Through Elivi Resort Access, 15km From Skiathos Town

From Skiathos Town, take the main bus to Koukounaries — the terminus is bus stop 26, 15 kilometres southwest. From the stop, a short path through the pine forest leads to Koukounaries beach; Xenia Beach (Ambelakia) is reached by a steep descent on a different path from the same stop. The descent requires attention — several accounts describe it as steep and uneven.

By car, follow the coastal road southwest and park in the Koukounaries parking areas. The walk from Koukounaries beach around the headland reaches Xenia/Ambelakia in approximately 10 minutes.

Water taxis from Skiathos Town harbour take 20 minutes.

The Beach: 220m Sandy, Normal Depth Gradient, Pine Shade, Beach Bar, Partly Public Partly Elivi Hotel

The beach is 220 metres long with sandy bottom and a normal gradual entry — no water shoes needed. Pine trees line the back of the beach providing natural shade. The beach has toilets, changing cabins, beach bar, sunbeds and umbrellas. The Mystique Beach Club is 10 metres from the beach. One section is public; another section is reserved for Elivi hotel guests.

Away from the organised areas, particularly around the rocks at the northern end, space opens for visitors who bring their own towels and want to avoid the commercial section entirely.

The Elivi Skiathos Resort: The 1963 Xenia Site Transformed

Elivi Skiathos is the luxury resort on the site of the original Xenia Hotel — a family-run operation started by father and daughter Elias and Vivi Nathanailidi in 2018. The resort operates three restaurants, a bar, tennis courts, and direct access to Koukounaries beach through its Xenia Beach Bar. The beach below the property — Ambelakia — is the private section for resort guests. The public section is the remainder of the same 220-metre strip.

Xenia Beach (Ambelakia) on Skiathos is the 220-metre sandy cove beneath the 1963 Xenia Hotel site — abandoned for decades, sold in 2015, now the Elivi Skiathos luxury resort, partly public and partly hotel access, bus stop 26 then steep path down, pine shade, beach bar, black swans in the adjacent Strophilia wetland, Koukounaries 10 minutes on foot around the headland, 15 kilometres from Skiathos Town.

Take the bus to stop 26. Descend carefully. Look for the black swans in the wetland.