Cala di Mitigliano, Massa Lubrense: The Pebble Cove With a Lime Kiln and Capri Opposite

Italy | Campania | Sorrentine Peninsula | Massa Lubrense | Punta Campanella Marine Protected Area

The round, ruined building on the right-hand side of the cove looks like a tower, and it is easy to take for a watchtower. Local tourism material identifies it as a lime kiln, a reminder of the time when the cove was worked, and it sets Cala di Mitigliano apart from the other pebble beaches on the Sorrentine coast. The cove lies in the municipality of Massa Lubrense, below the village of Termini, facing Capri, and it is part of the Punta Campanella Marine Protected Area.

The Lime Kiln and the Circular Grotto at Cala di Mitigliano

The kiln is the landmark on the shore, but the more unusual feature is under the surface. Along the coast is a circular grotto, five or six metres across, on a seabed about fifteen metres down. A travel guide describes it as roughly fifty feet deep, which agrees. It is a favourite with snorkellers and divers, and boat tours from Sorrento stop at the cove so passengers can swim there.

The cove itself is enclosed by steep cliffs, with views of Punta Campanella and Capri. That setting explains why Cala di Mitigliano is a stop on boat itineraries and a destination for walkers, and why it attracts visitors who prefer a wilder beach.

Pebbles, Boulders and Clear Water Under the Cliffs

This is not a sandy beach. The shore is pebbles and boulders of different sizes, and visitors often settle directly on the rocks. One guide describes the pebbles as white and polished, and the water as shading from turquoise to emerald green. Listings stress clear water and good snorkelling, and the gradient of the seabed is not documented, so non-swimmers and children should stay at the edge.

Because the cove lies inside a marine protected area, local rules on anchoring, fishing and diving may apply, and I could not verify the zoning. Boat users should check with the Punta Campanella authority.

Two Ways Down: The Footpath From Termini or the Private Road With Paid Parking

The footpath starts in Termini. From Piazza Santa Croce, take Via Campanella. After about 200 metres the road forks, with the right branch leading to Monte San Costanzo and the left to Punta Campanella and Cala di Mitigliano. A steep path branches off to the left and passes the church of Santa Maria di Mitigliano, built on the remains of an old abbey. Guides give the walk as 20 to 30 minutes down, with a drop of about 300 metres, and the climb back is felt. The alternative is a private road that leads to a small car park among the olive trees, with a short walk and steps below it. Parking there is paid, with a figure of about five euros a day given in one guide, and spaces are limited, so arrive early. By sea, boats from Sorrento or Positano reach the cove, and many boat tours stop. For a very different beach on the same coast, Spiaggia Grande Positano is the main beach of Positano on the Amalfi side of the peninsula.

A Beach With Few Services and Conflicting Accounts

One guide states that there are no services at all: no lifeguards, showers or toilets, and no food. A beach directory calls it an equipped free beach, and a Portuguese-language site lists parking, a shower and sunbeds. These accounts conflict, and I could not resolve them, so bring water, food, shade and a bag for your rubbish, and treat any facilities as a bonus.

The cove suits children who walk well and swim confidently, according to a local guide, and it is unsuitable for strollers or anyone with difficulty on rocks. Water shoes help on the pebbles. I could not find a rule on dogs. Italy has no national ban on dogs at beaches, and a protected-area regime may add restrictions, so ask the authorities, and remember that the steep descent is hard on a dog in summer heat.

Eating in Termini After the Climb

There is nothing to eat on the shore, so bring a picnic. After the climb, the village of Termini and the nearby harbours of the peninsula are the places to look for a meal. I could not verify the restaurants named in the source, so I have left them out.

Leave the cove with enough daylight and water for the climb back, and stop at the church of Santa Maria di Mitigliano on the way up.