Spiaggia di San Francesco, Forio, Ischia: A West-Facing Beach Below Punta Caruso

Italy | Campania | Gulf of Naples | Ischia Island | Forio

When William and Susana Walton chose land on Ischia’s northwest coast to build a home, Lady Walton later explained that they bought the ground because it faced the setting sun and so gained extra hours of light. The garden they made there, La Mortella, sits only a short walk from Spiaggia di San Francesco, and the beach shares the same exposure. It lies just north of the town of Forio on the Zaro side of the island, and it is a beach for the second half of the day.

Spiaggia di San Francesco Beside La Mortella and Below Punta Caruso

La Mortella was begun in the late 1950s by Susana Walton, wife of the composer Sir William Walton, and it opened to the public in 1991. The gardens occupy the promontory of Zaro, and the villas on Punta Caruso above the beach are among the island’s most sought-after residential addresses. Spiaggia di San Francesco lies directly below that high ground, with the promontory at one end of the sand.

Local guides describe the rocks of Punta Caruso as giving off mineral reflections as the light falls in the evening, which is part of the beach’s appeal at dusk. The sand itself runs for roughly 300 metres, which makes it a medium-sized beach by Ischia’s standards, and it is considered suitable for families, couples and older visitors alike.

Afternoon Sun and Sunset on a Western Exposure

Because the beach faces west, it is better for the afternoon than for the morning, and it stays sunny until sunset. Visitors who want early light should look elsewhere on the island, and those who want the evening should plan to stay. The sun goes down over open water, and the seafront restaurants and bars along the beach give a place to stay for a drink or dinner while it does.

The same orientation shapes the day’s rhythm. The sand warms steadily through the afternoon, and shade is limited to the umbrellas and the area close to the promontory, so a hat and a cover for the midday are sensible.

Clear Water, Uneven Depth and Snorkelling Under the Promontory

The water is clear, and the depth is not uniform. Some stretches of the shore deepen gradually, while in others the bottom drops away almost at once, so the beach cannot be treated as one long shallow bathing area. That matters most for families with small children. The sand is fine and the setting is sociable, but parents should check the depth where they settle and keep children within reach, particularly near the tideline.

The end of the beach beneath the promontory is the part favoured by swimmers, snorkellers and water-sports users, because the rocks and caves nearby give something to look at beneath the surface. Canoes and pedal boats (pedalò) can be hired in season for exploring the rocky stretches along the coast.

Free Sand, Concessions and Dogs

The beach mixes free sand with paid concessions, and a number of the concessions rent umbrellas and sun beds. Restaurants and snack bars stand within easy walking distance of each other, so a full day can be spent without leaving the sand. Concessions generally provide showers and changing cabins, and lifeguard cover is normal at Italian lidos in season, although I could not confirm the hours that apply here.

I could not find a rule on dogs published for Spiaggia di San Francesco specifically. Italy has no national ban on dogs at beaches. Access is set by municipal and regional ordinances, and the notices at the entrance to the public sand decide the matter. In a concession, the operator chooses, so ask before paying for a place.

Two Roads Down to the Beach: Bus, Taxi, Car Park and the Woodland Path From Zaro

Two roads lead down to the sand, and both have car parks, with taxi ranks nearby. Parking on this stretch is paid. The island’s public bus network serves the area, and a stop named after San Francesco Bay lies on the route toward Punta Caruso. The centre of Forio is a few kilometres away, and car, scooter and bicycle rental are available there. Walkers staying in the Zaro area can reach the beach on foot in around ten to fifteen minutes from the gardens. A path through the woods of Zaro also leads in about twenty minutes to Lacco Ameno and its thermal park, which makes it possible to combine this beach with Spiaggia di San Montano, the sheltered bay on the other side of the Monte Vico headland.

Seafront Restaurants at Sunset

Several seafront restaurants and snack bars stand along the beach. They serve the island’s usual fish and seafood, and the specialities of Ischia, among them rabbit prepared in the island style, which is the dish most visitors are told to order. Beach bars handle coffee, gelato and light snacks through the day, and in the evening they shift to aperitivo while the sun goes down over the water.

Wait for the last light on the rocks of Punta Caruso, then walk back up the road toward the gardens.