Giannitsi Beach, Marmari: A Venetian Castle Above the Sand Watches the Strait Toward Andros

Greece | Giannitsi | Marmari, Southern Evia

Above Giannitsi beach, on a steep rock, stand the ruins of the Venetian castle of Filagra, positioned with a strategic logic that becomes obvious the moment I looked back up at it from the sand: from that height, the entire southeastern coast of Evia is visible, along with the Kafireas Strait, the channel of water separating the island from Andros in the Cyclades. Whoever held this castle controlled a clear vantage over both the coastline and the strait, a detail that explains why a fortification exists here at all, on what is otherwise a remote and lightly populated stretch of shore.

The beach itself sits north of the village of Giannitsi, which is itself described by more than one source as historic and now sparsely populated, a settlement that has shrunk considerably from whatever scale it held when the castle above still mattered militarily. The correct approach to this beach runs through Marmari, not through Karystos and a crossing of Mount Ochi — a route I would specifically avoid recommending, since the more direct and accurate path follows the coast above Marmari rather than over the mountain’s summit. A small stream descends from the hills and reaches the sea at the beach, a feature shared with several other beaches along this stretch of southern Evia’s coastline, where mountain torrents regularly cut their way down to the shore.

Getting There: North of Marmari, a Winding Descent to a Sparsely Populated Village

From Marmari, the route to Giannitsi follows the coast road north before descending toward the beach itself; from Karystos, allow approximately 35 to 45 minutes covering the distance via the appropriate coastal route rather than the mountain pass. The final stretch is consistently described as a winding descent, manageable in a standard car but not one to rush. A small dirt parking area sits close to the sand at the end of the road.

A ferry from Rafina to Marmari takes about an hour, after which the drive to Giannitsi adds a further stretch through the hills above the town.

The Beach: Sand and Fine Pebbles, a Mountain Stream, One Seasonal Canteen

The shore mixes sand with fine pebbles, the water deep and transparent close to the entry point, with depth increasing quickly rather than gradually — consistent with the wider pattern along this Aegean-facing coast, where the open exposure to the sea produces sharper drop-offs than the more sheltered beaches on Evia’s western side. One seasonal canteen provides the only food and drink directly on the beach, offering the essentials rather than a full menu; the village of Giannitsi, a short distance away, has its own tavernas for a more substantial meal, including dishes built around local Karystian meats and the regional pasta known as kourkoubines.

Natural shade is minimal, the surrounding cliffs steep and the vegetation sparse, and a small number of straw umbrellas provide what little additional cover exists beyond what visitors bring themselves. Because the beach faces the open Aegean directly, the Meltemi winds can raise a genuine swell here, and I would check forecasts before committing to a swim on a breezy day — the difference between a calm and a rough visit to Giannitsi depends heavily on conditions that change from one day to the next.

Filagra Castle, Vivarte-Nature, and the Wider Marmari Coast

A short distance from the beach, a small cultural space called Vivarte-Nature, run by two visual artists, hosts photography and body-painting workshops alongside an outdoor art installation park — an unusual addition to find on such a remote stretch of coastline. The wider area around Marmari, including Great Sand Beach Megali Ammos Marmari Evia Greece and Agia Paraskevi Beach Karystos Evia Greece, gives a fuller picture of how varied this section of southern Evia’s coast actually is, from the organised sand at Megali Ammos to the scattered, sheltered coves of Agia Paraskevi to this more exposed and isolated beach beneath the Filagra ruins.

Giannitsi Beach, north of the sparsely populated village of the same name above Marmari, sits beneath the ruined Venetian castle of Filagra, whose elevated position commands a view across the southeastern coast of Evia and the Kafireas Strait toward Andros. Sand and fine pebbles, a mountain stream reaching the shore, one seasonal canteen, minimal natural shade, and exposure to the open Aegean that makes the Meltemi winds a genuine factor to check before swimming. Reached via Marmari rather than a crossing of Mount Ochi, with the village’s own tavernas a short drive away for a fuller meal.

Drive via Marmari, not over Mount Ochi. Check the wind forecast first. Look up at Filagra before you swim and imagine the strait from where the castle once watched it.