Arina, Kokkini Hani: A Beach Town Named After a Turkish Inn

Greece | Kokkini Hani | Heraklion, Crete

Kokkini Hani takes its name directly from the Turkish word hani, meaning inn — specifically the Hani of Kokkinis, a well-known roadside inn that operated here sometime in the early 1900s. As farmers from the surrounding villages began working the fertile land along this stretch of coast, and travellers needed somewhere to rest along their journey, the settlement slowly grew up around that exact inn until it had a name and an identity of its own. I find it satisfying that a beach town this developed today started life as nothing more than a place to stop and sleep.

The beach itself, often called Arina after the well-known resort sitting directly on it, runs as a long, genuinely wide stretch of sand between Heraklion and Hersonissos, roughly fourteen kilometres from the capital. The bay opens north, which means it catches real wind, and on a breezy day the water turns genuinely wavy rather than staying flat — a quality that’s made this stretch popular for stand-up paddleboarding and kitesurfing rather than just casual swimming.

Getting There: 12 to 15 Minutes From Heraklion, via the Old National Road

I followed the Old National Road east toward Kokkini Hani, exiting before the Amnissos junction rather than continuing onto the newer motorway — the beach is clearly visible from the road, with free parking sitting right in front of the shore. The drive from central Heraklion took me a little under fifteen minutes.

By bus, the route toward Hersonissos or Malia departs Heraklion’s central station roughly every thirty minutes, stopping right at the beach entrance — ask for the Arina or Kokkini Hani stop. From Heraklion International Airport, the beach sits genuinely close, five to ten minutes by car, making this a realistic stop either right after landing or shortly before a flight home.

The Beach: Long and Sandy, a Gradual Slope, Genuinely Open to the Wind

The sand runs light brown and fine, the seabed sloping gradually enough for a long, comfortable wade rather than a sudden drop, and the beach holds Blue Flag recognition for water quality. I’d recommend checking conditions before committing to a swim on a windier day, since the open northern exposure here means the sea can pick up real waves rather than staying calm the way some more sheltered beaches further along this coast do.

Organised sections run sunbeds and umbrellas alongside genuinely free, unorganised sandy stretches for anyone happy with their own towel. Beach bars including the well-known NEMI and casual canteens line the shore, serving Greek street food and cocktails, and changing cabins, showers, and restrooms cover the practical side. Lifeguards are present during peak summer months, and water sports operators take advantage of the wind for paddleboarding and kitesurfing lessons and rentals.

What Sits Nearby

The Cretaquarium, one of the larger aquariums in Europe, sits about three and a half kilometres away, and the Minoan manor house of Nirou Khani is barely a kilometre from the beach itself, a worthwhile detour for anyone wanting a piece of ancient history alongside the swim. Amnissos Beach, with its own Minoan harbour history, sits about three kilometres further along the same general stretch of coast, and the village of Gouves, with its own markets and more traditional pace, is an easy drive inland.

Arina Beach, at Kokkini Hani between Heraklion and Hersonissos, sits in a former fishing village that takes its name from a Turkish-era roadside inn, the Hani of Kokkinis, around which the settlement gradually grew. The beach itself is long, sandy, and genuinely open to the north — expect real wind and occasional waves rather than flat, sheltered water, which has made this a favoured spot for paddleboarding and kitesurfing. Sunbeds, beach bars including NEMI, lifeguards in season, and a gradual sandy slope into the water. Twelve to fifteen minutes from Heraklion, five to ten from the airport.

Drive the Old National Road, exiting before Amnissos, or take the bus toward Hersonissos. Check wind conditions before swimming on a breezier day. Visit Nirou Khani or the Cretaquarium nearby if you want to extend the day beyond the beach itself.