Kalamaki Beach, Palaia Epidavros: The Pine-Shaded Pebble Beach Reached by Walking Through the Forest From Vagionia, Near the Sunken Bronze Age City Discovered by Aerial Balloon Photography in the 1970s

Greece | Palaia Epidavros | Epidaurus Municipality, Argolida, Peloponnese

In the 1970s, a photographer in a hot-air balloon over the bay of Palaia Epidavros noticed rectangular shapes in the shallow water of Agios Vlasios bay. The aerial photograph revealed what no ground-level survey had identified: a submerged settlement at a depth of approximately two metres, close enough to the shoreline to be visible from the surface on a calm day. Subsequent investigation confirmed an ancient port settlement dating to approximately 1200 BC — the Bronze Age period when Mycenaean civilisation was at its peak. The site includes an ancient breakwater still partially preserved, various walls, and three clustered buildings — the most impressive being a Roman villa rustica 50 metres from the coast, 40 metres long and 15 metres wide, at the shallow depth that makes snorkelling sufficient for the visit.

Palaia Epidavros — Old Epidaurus — is built on the ruins of the ancient city itself. The settlement is amphitheatrically arranged on the hillside between two natural peninsulas overlooking the Saronic Gulf. The modern town occupies the same geography as the ancient one, which is why the sunken section of ancient Epidaurus is in the water offshore rather than under the modern streets: the coastline has subsided. Walking through Palaia Epidavros is walking through a town built directly on its ancient predecessor, with the ancient harbour now two metres below the adjacent sea.

Kalamaki beach is reached from Vagionia beach by a forest path through the pine trees — five minutes on foot. It is described consistently as the quieter and more secluded of the two Palaia Epidavros beaches: Vagionia has sand and pebbles and the village tavernas directly adjacent; Kalamaki is wrapped in the green of the pine forest, slightly more isolated, the trees reaching to the water’s edge.

Getting There: 125km From Athens (1h45), 45 Minutes From Nafplio, 5 Minutes on Foot From Vagionia Beach Through the Pine Forest

From Athens, take the national road toward Corinth and then toward Epidaurus. Follow signs for Palaia Epidavros (Old Epidaurus). The drive is approximately 125 kilometres and takes 1 hour 45 minutes. From Nafplio, the scenic route through the historic interior of the Argolid takes approximately 45 minutes.

At Palaia Epidavros, reach Vagionia beach — the main beach of the village, sandy and pebbly, with the village centre immediately adjacent. A paved forest path from Vagionia leads through the pine trees to Kalamaki in 5 minutes. By car, Kalamaki is separately signposted with its own parking area.

The Beach: Pine Trees to the Water’s Edge, Pebble Shore, Calm Clear Water, Water Shoes, Caretta Turtle Sightings

Kalamaki is a pebble beach in the curved bay of Palaia Epidavros, with the pine trees extending to the shoreline. The pine canopy provides the natural shade that makes the beach distinctive — not the tamarisk trees of many Aegean beaches but the specific scent of Mediterranean pine at the waterline. The water is clear and calm, the bay sheltered, the seabed pebble-to-sand. Water shoes are comfortable for the pebble entry.

A sea kayak tour operator specifically includes Kalamaki as a stop on the extended version of the Sunken City tour: “paddle to a secluded beach nestled next to a pine forest.” The beach is a loggerhead sea turtle habitat — a TripAdvisor reviewer specifically recorded a Caretta caretta turtle sighting during a swim. The presence of loggerhead turtles reflects the water quality and the relatively undisturbed character of the beach.

Sunbeds and umbrellas from a seasonal beach bar operate in part of the beach. The larger free section is the alternative for visitors who prefer their own shade under the pines.

The Sunken City: Bronze Age Settlement at 2m Depth, Snorkelling, Kayak Tours, Roman Villa Rustica 50m Offshore

The sunken ancient settlement is at Kalymnios beach in Agios Vlasios bay — accessible by kayak from Palaia Epidavros port, or by boat tour, or by snorkelling from the Kalymnios shore. The settlement dates to approximately 1200 BC and includes the ancient port, walls, and clustered buildings. The Roman villa rustica — 40 metres long, 15 metres wide — is 50 metres from the coastline at 2 metres depth. These agricultural estate villas served as the residence of the estate owner and the management centre for the surrounding farmland.

The breakwater that once protected the ancient harbour is still partially intact under the water — snorkellers can follow it from the shore. The site is free and unguarded; snorkelling equipment is the only requirement.

The Little Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus: 4th Century BC, on the Nisi Peninsula, Musical July

The Little Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus stands on the Nisi peninsula in Palaia Epidavros, directly in the village — built in the 4th century BC and primarily used for rituals of the Dionysian cult. It is smaller than the famous Theatre of Epidaurus 12 kilometres away but significant for the inscriptions that cover it — a living museum of ancient text. The theatre hosts the Musical July festival in summer — a performing arts programme that uses the ancient space for contemporary performances.

The famous Theatre of Epidaurus (UNESCO World Heritage, the most acoustically perfect ancient theatre known, capable of 14,000 spectators) is 12 kilometres from Palaia Epidavros — the mandatory visit that the beach day can be combined with in a full Epidaurus day.

The Epidaurus Beach Sequence: Vagionia, Kalamaki, Polemarcha

The beaches of Palaia Epidavros form a sequence accessible on foot or by car from the village. Nisi is at the harbour, sandy and pebbled, calm. Vagionia has sand and pebbles, the village centre directly behind, accessible for visitors with disabilities. Kalamaki follows through the pine forest — for those wanting more isolation. Polemarcha in the Ancient Epidaurus area has two beaches with pine forest shade and an unfinished church on the promontory. Gyalasi is the most organised, with beach bar, sunbeds, and water sports.

Karathonas Beach Nafplio Greece — the 3km sandy Blue Flag beach behind Palamidi with the endemic flora walk — is 45 minutes west. Kondyli Beach Nafplio Greece — the most beautiful beach in Argolida, 17km from Nafplio near Vivari — is also reachable from a Palaia Epidavros base.

Kalamaki Beach at Palaia Epidavros is the pine-shaded pebble beach 5 minutes through the forest from Vagionia — the sunken Bronze Age settlement at Agios Vlasios bay accessible by snorkelling or kayak (discovered 1970s from balloon photography, 2m depth, Roman villa rustica 50m offshore, ancient breakwater intact), Caretta caretta loggerhead turtle sightings, clear calm water, water shoes for the pebble entry, the Little Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus on the Nisi peninsula in the village (Musical July festival), the famous Theatre of Epidaurus 12km away (UNESCO), 125km from Athens (1h45), 45 minutes from Nafplio.

Drive from Athens or Nafplio. Park at Vagionia. Walk 5 minutes through the pines.