Psili Ammos Beach, Serifos: The Sunday Times Best Beach in Europe (2004 and 2009), 600m of Fine Sand, 8km From the Port, No Sunbeds — Go on a Windless Day

Greece | Psili Ammos | Serifos, Cyclades

The name means fine sand, and the name is accurate. It is not surprising that it was voted best beach in Europe 2004 and 2009 from the Sunday Times. It is tucked down in a cove with nice sand and shallow clear calm water, perfect for swimming. The sea is just the right light blue colour, so dreamy, you can relax and float in it for hours.

The beach itself being named Fine Sand is obvious why when there is a slight breeze. Either go on a windless day or make sure you have some form of a windbreak. This is the one caveat that neither the Sunday Times nor the enthusiastic reviews foreground. Psili Ammos is genuinely outstanding in still conditions. In even moderate wind, the fine sand lifts and the beach becomes uncomfortable. Check the forecast before making the 8-kilometre drive from Livadi.

This expansive stretch of coastline, approximately 600 metres in length, boasts soft, golden sand. The sea, a magnificent azure hue, is clear and transparent, with a gradual depth increase that ensures safety for swimmers. Because the cove is shallower than at Agios Sostis, the water was warmer.

If you are looking for an organised beach with loungers and music, this is NOT the place for you. If you like plenty of space, with a friendly family and friends atmosphere, you would love it here. There are no sunbeds or umbrellas, but you can find plenty of shade under the trees along the beach.

Getting There: 8km From Livadi, Asphalt Road With Bus Service, 117 Steps From Road Level to Sand, Limited Parking

An asphalt road provides access to the beach, with regular bus service from Livadi. While cars and motorcycles are options for transportation, it is important to note that parking space is limited. During the peak season of July and August, the beach attracts numerous visitors, so arriving early is advisable to secure a comfortable spot in the shade of the tamarisks and to find parking.

You can park the car at the taverna if you eat there or park it upstairs on the road and take the 117-step stairs directly to the beach. The 117 steps are the specific approach detail. They are not difficult but they are steep, and the walk back up after a long beach day in summer heat is the one physical demand the visit makes.

The available options for reaching Psili Ammos are on foot, which takes around an hour from Livadi, or by moped, which rentals are available at the port as well.

On foot from Livadi, the coastal hiking trail takes 45 to 60 minutes and offers views of the Aegean and the neighbouring islet of Vou.

The Trees: Tamarisk Shade, First Come First Served — Arrive Before 10am in August

Very beautiful beach with thankfully a lot of individual trees for shade. However, the trees fill up very quickly with people. We arrived at 10 am each of two occasions and already were running to grab one of the last ones. Get there early would be my advice.

The tamarisk trees are the primary shade provision — there are no sunbeds or commercial umbrellas. Instead of shower stalls, tamarisk brushwood provides natural changing areas, and restrooms are located within the beach taverns.

The beach runs 600 metres but the trees occupy a portion of the rear edge — the competition for shaded spots is real in peak August. Arriving by 9am rather than 10am is the margin between a tree and full sun.

Stefanakos and Manolis: The Two Tavernas That Have Been Here Longer Than Most Visitors Have Been Alive

There are two classical Greek tavernas at the beach — Stefanakos and Manolis. After my swim, I enjoyed an authentic taverna meal of meatballs, chips and a Greek salad at Stefanakos, which seemed to be a popular choice with locals as well.

There are two tavernas at the back of the beach, tucked away so they do not spoil the view, whilst still allowing you to gaze over the sea whilst eating. The Stefanakos and Manolis combination is the specific gastronomic provision — no beach bars, no cocktails in plastic cups, just proper sit-down taverna food at the back of the beach with the sea in front of you. The local marathokeftedes (fennel fritters) are the island-specific dish.

Agios Ioannis: The Second Beach, a Short Walk Further

Right next to Psili Ammos across a small hill you can find a second beach at the eastern side of Serifos, Agios Ioannis. You can easily combine this beach with Psili Ammos as they are just a few hundred feet apart.

During high season, it may be necessary to walk along the coast for about 10 minutes towards Agios Ioannis in order to get some solitude.

Serifos: The Iron Island, the Chora on the Hill, the Ferry From Piraeus

Serifos is a Western Cyclades island 2.5 to 3 hours from Piraeus by ferry. The island’s Chora (capital) sits on a dramatic hilltop visible from the port — one of the most striking Cycladic capitals, with Venetian castle ruins above the white-walled town. The mythology: Perseus was born on Serifos and returned here after slaying Medusa, turning the king Polydectes to stone with her head. The iron mining that sustained the island for centuries is visible in the rusted red rocks around the coast.

Psili Ammos Beach on Serifos is the Sunday Times‘ best beach in Europe in 2004 and 2009 — 600 metres of fine golden sand 8 kilometres from Livadi, no sunbeds or umbrellas (tamarisk trees are the shade, first come first served — arrive before 9am in August), 117 steps from road level to the sand, the wind lifts the fine sand on windy days (check forecast first), Stefanakos and Manolis tavernas at the back, Agios Ioannis beach a 10-minute walk further for solitude.

Check the wind. Park at the top. Walk the 117 steps. Be under a tree before 10am.